When we think of houseplants at this time of year, most of us will think of the Poinsettia. They are supposedly the most popular houseplant in the world with millions of pounds/dollars/euros spent on them. Gives us a lift I think, they are so bright and cheerful looking as the weather deteriorates.
Poinsettias made their way to the United States by Joel R. Poinsett, the U.S. ambassador to Mexico. He liked the spiky red desert plant so much he shipped in the first load in 1820. Today, the plant bears his name and is so popular that in America they even have a National Poinsettia Day (December 12). Most people have no intention of keeping their Poinsettia past January. If this is you, simply follow the directions below to get the most from your seasonal poinsettias, of which there are about 200 varieties on the market today, including the most popular red. Like bromeliads, the actual flower of a poinsettia is small and insignificant. It’s the large bract that gives all the colour. When you’re picking and caring for poinsettias, keep the following points in mind:
- Poinsettias are naturally brittle plants that break easily in transit. Make sure the branches are intact, with no cracked branches held together by the plant sleeve.
- The poinsettia’s flowers are tiny, yellow flowers in the center of the showy bract. Make sure they’re not opened yet so the plant will last longer.
- If the red or colored portions of the flower bract have begun to turn green, the plant is older and it won’t retain its colors as long.
- You want a compact plant with as many bracts as possible. Some professional growers insist on 8 to 12 bracts for a 6-inch potted plant.
- Do not keep your new poinsettia in its planter’s sleeve. These are arid, subtropical plants and need good air circulation and excellent drainage to thrive. Sleeves often hold water and promote plant decline.
- The compost surface should be slightly dry before you water again. However, when you do, water the plant thoroughly and ensure free drainage. Do not let the compost dry completely.
- No fertilizer during the Christmas season. They prefer to be a little hungry for a better show.
- Avoid draughty, cold locations. Do not place near windows or doors or under vents. Poinsettias prefer warmer air.
- Poinsettias prefer bright light during the winter flowering season.
If you feel that you only plan to keep your poinsettia for a few weeks during the Christmas season, but that it is still a shame to lose a plant, consider: the most common problems experienced by poinsettias are –
- Yellowing or brown leaves are most likely caused by dry air. Although poinsettias do not like to sit in water, they do like humidity. If your plant begins to look crinkly around the leaf edges, try misting it regularly or setting the pot in a tray filled with pebbles and water to raise the ambient humidity.
- Wilting and suddenly leaf drop is caused by over- or under-watering. Soggy soil will result in sudden leaf drop, and allowing the plant to become bone dry will result in decline of the plant. However, if your plant begins to drop healthy, non-wilted leaves, the culprit is probably a cold draft or too little light.
After the holiday season, the plant will begin to gradually lose its leaves in anticipation of a resting period. Move the plant to a cooler, shadier location. Don’t worry about the leaves falling—they’re supposed to. Only water when the soil is dry to the touch and do not fertilize. If you don’t want to let the leaves drop naturally, feel free to cut the plant back hard when you move it to its resting place. Trim the branches to within a few inches of the soil, leaving only a naked stump.
Some brave souls aim to keep the plants and encourage them to bloom again. Beware: this is a dicey proposition that requires a special touch, so if you plan to try it, be prepared to take extraordinary measures. In some warmer, subtropical areas, poinsettias can be transplanted outside in January, where they will grow into their native shrubby form. Although your plant will look dismal, this is natural. The only word of caution is to watch the stems – those shrivel or turn brown are dead.
In May, when the temperature outside is consistently 60 degrees or higher, move the plant from its resting place outside. At the same time, repot it into a slightly larger pot. Outside, the poinsettia wants dappled, but not direct, sunlight. Use an organic potting mixture and do not put the plant directly into the ground unless you plan to keep it there permanently. Finally, resume watering and feeding normally. You should see the plant begin to grow again. New leaves and shoots will appear. As the summer wears on, selectively prune the plant to preserve three to four main branches. You can use the cuttings to start new poinsettias.
By the end of the summer, you should have a healthy, somewhat larger poinsettia than the original plant. Now comes the tricky part. Like many plants, poinsettias set their flowers based on light cycles. To force a poinsettia into a Christmas bloom, you need to provide 12 hours of TOTAL darkness every day, beginning in late September or early October. Some people move their plants into closets at night, or cover their poinsettias with black bags or boxes to shut out the light. During the day, move your plant back to its regular location. However you do it, plan on strictly following this schedule until about mid-November.
If you’ve managed to get the job right, you should see flower bracts forming in the Autumn and growing rapidly. Once the bracts have set and are growing, you can discontinue the dark/light cycle and treat as you would any other poinsettia. This pattern—rest, active growth, dark/light—can be followed for many years with the same plant, and if it’s done correctly, it will continuously yield.
So…….. I wonder if you will have the same plant during Christmas 2017 as you have in 2016? Give it a try, you have nothing to loose. I hope you found this information interesting.
